I get this question all the time. People want to know what system I recommend in my online courses. What system I think is the safest. What I think is the most simple and efficient. What system I use.

You might be disappointed by my answer. “It depends”.

Foreword

People will usually swear they have the best system. That it is safe since they used it for many years without any injury.

That is not how it should work. It might be the best system for THEM. Lucky if they did not get injured. They might expose themself to a risk they never identified in the first place.

Your tolerance to risk might be different. If you know how the system can fail, you can choose better for yourself! And this is not to mention the survival bias. (google it!)

What system I recommend

In my online courses, I cover 10-14 climbing systems that I believe are safe (enough) and provide tips to help learners climb more efficiently safely. I also show how the systems can fail and how to prevent it or make them reasonably safe. I focus on building a better judgment in the learner. The climber with the best system but poor judgment cannot stay safe.

What I think is the safest

Safety is a lunacy. It is all about risk management. Focus when setting things up and continuous awareness on what is around you. I created a scale about safety in climbing. The safest rope solo climbing systems consist of a primary device and a reliable backup.

What is the most simple and efficient

Free solo is the most simple. But in the world of safety, one is none and two is one. You need a backup! If you have a rope and a dependable device but no hand on the rope, you should not fall. Climbing is your first line of safety and the device is your backup.

You should be able to fall all day with the systems I recommend. If the device fails, the backup should save your life. That is if you do it right, fingers crossed. So many things can happen.

The biggest lie in climbing (in my opinion) is that trad climbing is safe. Pieces of pro are known to be unreliable. If one placement fails in 100, that will result in many accidents worldwide. Always put the odds in your favor and if you think you will fall: put 2 pieces!!

Also beware: I like complicated things. This is probably my biggest flaw. All in all, I don’t teach the most simple. I teach the most efficient way that gets the job done with reasonable risk management. I always imagine my peers climbing instructors looking over my shoulder. If it was simple, so many people would not be at a loss after my 6 years of seriously trying to gather better ways. And after legendary climbers developed the Soloist and the Silent Partner…

What system I use

Whatever system I want to master next in order to possibly teach it. As I write, I will try to find a “safe-enough” way of using the Eddy (never quite found that yet), and will climb a ton with the El Mudo 3.0 because I know it can work. Is it the “best out there”? Time will tell! Do I think someone will break a rope solo speed record using it? I doubt it. Do I think someone will climb a 5.14 trad or 5.14+ sport  using it? I doubt it. But hey! I have been proven wrong many times since I started working to be a professional at rope soloing 6 years ago… 

You reading: please prove me wrong again!! We will all learn something!

 

Thanks for your interest! Rope solo evolves thanks to 20k+ people members of the Facebook groups and commenting on my videos!

Be safe out there. Have fun. Climb a ton!

The simplest part of climbing? Finding a partner!

                                        – Bliss Climbing

You want to reach me? Try here!  https://dev.blissclimbing.com/en/contact/

Please consider buying an online course from me: you will learn A TON! https://dev.blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/ 

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Luca Dondoni asks me on YouTube: “Granted that I would never do such a thing, what do you think of the daisy chain solo? I saw a video, and I am very perplexed …”

This questions refers to the following video by Andrea Calligaris:

My answer:

Some people will choose to free solo right? (if you fall you die) For these climbers, it might be a good option to use daisy chain solo for short harder bits on a climb to increase their safety. This tactic requires a complete knowledge of the route and where you will place gear / what fixed gear you will clip prior to the climb. Because without the knowledge, you might have to completely unclip where you don’t feel comfortable. Note that you should be CERTAIN not to fall 100% on daisy chain solo terrain… See why in the next section. Also, if you want to aid daisy chain solo, you should have at least 2 or ideally 3 bomber pieces of gear in at all times because gear fails and if gear fails, it is VERY POSSIBLE that 2 pieces of gear fail while aid daisy chain soloing..

You should NEVER fall on a daisy like seen in the video

Carabiners break during falls. Just google “carabiner breaks climbing” and you will find many videos and forum discussion relating to carabiners breaking. A single carabiner in NOTABLY unreliable to sustain a fall. You need a backup! That is the first reason I see why you should NEVER make a daisy fall during a daisy chain solo. 

Note also that daisy chains are NOT designed to sustain falls (for example Metolius PAS). Some models are so “static” that they would hurt you bad AND increase the odds of carabiner and anchor failure. Others are very weak and could easily cut (some are designed for body-weight only) (for example Metolius EZ daisy). Some are safer lanyards (for example Petzl Connect Adjust) BUT carabiner and anchor could always fail. Others are designed for bodyweight only and final outcome is uncertain (Petzl Evolv Adjust). 

My take on rope solo systems

While I agree that rock climbing is a game of managing dangers and that complete safety is impossible, I much prefer systems that should be 99.999%+ reliable. I have slipped sometimes and I am really happy I never got a bad injury. To me the cost is to use a rope in the traditional solo way with the leading of the pitch, the rappel, and the seconding of it. I have tried daisy soloing but it is not something I do often in my playground.

Conclusion

I recognize that daisy chain solo is a skill to keep in a quiver. As much as free soloing. But I choose and recommend you lead, rappel and second your climbs. I want you alive and well. And for a long time! 

Hope you enjoy reading this answer! You can send your questions to: yann@blissclimbing.com 

Make sure you check my top rope solo and lead rope solo comprehensive online courses here:  https://dev.blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/

Yann Camus, Avid Climber

I must say first I know Peter Zabrok (Pass the Pitons Pete or PTPP) very well because he talks a lot and writes a lot. And he is a friend!! Fabio Elli I do not know him so much. So in this review I always say PTPP this and PTPP that. And never Fabio… Sorry Fabio! You done an AMAZING JOB on this book!!!! Fuck yea! I am sure you cut a lot of PTPP text to make it reasonable eh?

Go to https://www.versantesud.it/en/shop/hooking-up-3/ for a 44 pages preview WOW!!

YES! 672 pages. And I do not think anything would be irrelevant. Just some very useful content in very much details. With Great pictures and Great stories by Jim Bridwell, Eric Sloan, John Middendorf, Chris McNamara, Andy Kirkpatrick, Mike Libecki, Libby Sauter and David Alfrey and many more!

A future book could be climbing big walls free. Strategies, ethics, ground up, onsight, rehearsed, single push, one day, shoes, skin, partnership, etc. I do not think any is covered in this book but I did not read cover to cover…

I wanted to go through all the pages and write a review to enable you to decide if you want it or not.

I must say first: the book spells Big Walls in TWO WORDS. Big win right here LOL. (I like it anyway) Below is a part by part review of the book. I cannot change myself for anyone, I am an Engineer!!!

Foreword by Jim Bridwell (2 pages)

Nice to see a contribution to this book by a Ledgend. 🙂 

Introduction to the Original Italian Version (4 pages)

Nice to have in the English version: it give the European perspective…

Introduction to the English Version (6 pages)

A 6 pages of introduction on top of the Euro introduction? Big Wall book is a Big Speech book too LOL. This can be expected from PTPP ;-).

1- A brief history of Aid Climbing (28 pages)

Well documented, good pictures. It will be a great read that is for sure 🙂 If you do not want to actually go climbing but you are interested in the mountain and Big Wall culture, you will still enjoy reading this.

2- Aid Climbing Rating System (17 pages)

I did not know there were so many! Definitely a reference if you want to understand any aid rating system…

3- Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys (104 pages)

We all love the gear. 104 pages is 11% of the big book. Includes the 4 greatest aid climbing innovations of the last 20 years 🙂 . Aid ladders: staggered, aligned or russian style?? This is all discussed. Includes the gear photos and the placements for pitons, cams, Nuts. It names the big bros and the Gypsies but lack the proper information on how to place them and judge if they are good. Hooks, heads, rivets and Cam Hooks are well covered especially in my opinion a recommendation I have never seen about cam hooks from Chris McNamara. I have to go test it! Pulleys, ledges, bags, hammers, screamers, cheat sticks, harnesses. All well done in great details! Only I do not find mention of the Cadillac by Misty Mountain: I have never seen / tried it but I know a lot of wall climbers rave about this one!!! Camping, knots, etc. All fine without too much unnecessary!

4- Leading on Aid (60 pages)

I need to read it all because it seems to cover everything with great details. I am running out of time so I keep short. Includes progression, testing of the different kind of anchor points, pendulums, transitions from aid to free, etc.

5- The Job of the Follower (38 pages)

Basically how to be efficient, do a good racking job, and most importantly: stay safe!

6- Championship Pig Wrestling (45 pages)

I will have to read since the 1:1 method has a lot of details to make it great and I rarely do it. The 2:1, not sure it tells you you can use a simple pedal to haul if you have the proper pulleys and cord/sling to do the Chongo ratchet. All these details are missing in my opinion: it can make you hauling much more efficient. I have to make a YouTube video about this!!! The 3:1, not enough details. Do NOT use the “example of a 3:1” image. Do the other shown: the “Spanish Burton”. I have seen climbers being very efficient with it. Just use the same recommendations I have to put in my future YouTube video 🙂 . Space haul special PTPP invention: I have to read it because I do not understand!!! Seems promising 🙂 Far end hauling: not a big wall book if not there … It is there therefore GREAT! You may need this one day…

7- The Nylon Highway (23 pages)

Great details apparently. All the good stuff you want to know to be efficient at going up fixed lines!

8- Living on the Wall (41 pages)

Taming the cluster and keeping safe… Enjoy the Margaritas LOL… PTPP climbs soooo heavy!!! Also a big one here: save your hands! Save your hand! Ok I think you get it… Buy the book !!!

9- Descent (22 pages)

Mostly great. I have to read it all and especially the Mike Libecki rappel story that seem spicy.

Ok we all know how to rappel on 2 strands with an ATC and prusik (we should anyway). But how to do it with a Grigri??? The way to tie the rope p.462 is not the most simple. And the picture is not so clear. But it will do it. Come see on BlissClimbing Facebook page for a lighter way to tie it (https://www.facebook.com/BlissClimbing/posts/2778678038869865). Or look at Petzl 3 other options here: https://www.petzl.com/CA/en/Sport/Belaying-and-descending-on-multi-pitch-climbs-on-a-single-rope

10- Alpine Aid Climbing Tips (13 pages)

Many great tips. Also some notes about suffering LOL!

11- Solo Aid and Big Wall Climbing (59 pages)

What! 9% of the book! That is a lot! OK ok for free climbing: buy my online courses here: https://dev.blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/ . A lot of Yer gonna die here! Very great read!!! The most current about solo tagging. I want to learn this! The continuous loop system is described. But better look at my illustration here “an image is worth 1000 words” https://www.facebook.com/BlissClimbing/posts/2618266428244361 

12- How to Read a Big Wall Topo (4 pages)

I wish there were more illustrations. May be enough!

13- How to Learn Stuff (12 pages)

Good read! Put it into practice!!!

14- Speed Climbing on Big Walls (7 pages)

The pakistani death loop makes for a good laugh! (in my opinion) And definitely not the reference book for that subject (PTPP is one of the slowest climbers) (But he did the NIAD and I did NOT) so…

A- Bitchin’ Places to Climb (26 pages)

Missing Pakistan and other Karakoram climbs big time guys 😉 The rest is there more or less in my opinion. Please comment others missing!!!

B- Dr. Piton Ultimate Big Wall Checklist (5 pages)

Good stuff. But then try to cut some otherwise you may climb the wall at a slow rate like PTPP does.

C- Glossary of Big Wall Terms and Dr. Piton-isms (12 pages)

Cool

D- Big Wall Songs (4 pages)

Cool again!

E- Big Wall and Aid Climbing Websites (3 pages)

If you want to read more

Bibliography (1 pages)

If you want to read more again!!

Acknowledgments (2 pages)

Nothing to say.

+++ Stories (124 pages in total)

Total of 17 stories that will make you want to go outside and to get it!!! Or will chill your bones 😉

Please buy it from verticallstore.com . The owner is awesome to the community!

https://www.verticallstore.com/Hooking_Up_-_The_Ultimate_Big_Wall_and_Aid_Climbing_Manual/p4546831_20108242.aspx

Hope you like this review!

Yann Camus, Avid Climber